ungefär 10k Råd tack

AMD:

http://www.komplett.se/k/shoplist.aspx?mode=receive&si=690078...

First of all, I recommend you buy the package in parts and assemble it yourself, it takes about 40-45 minutes and is quite simple, while it nets you an additional 800-1000 SEK to spend on actual hardware.

The manuals that accompany the motherboard and processor are basically foolproof when it comes to the installation, and the entire procedure is quite simple. All you need is a Philips-head screwdriver, a clean desk and a little patience.

By choosing an AMD processor instead of an Intel version, you get four cores for the same price as two on the Intel platform. They have a slightly lower clock frequency, but the additional cores by far outweigh this weakness in any newer application or game. Most newer games support more than two processor cores, and most if not all of the upcoming titles support up to four.

The package also drops in price far enough to include two Geforce GTX260 graphics cards in a SLI configuration instead of a single card, which in my opinion by itself is enough of a reason to buy AMD instead. The SLI configuration will net close to a 100% performance increase, putting the combination above and beyond the performance of high-end cards such as the HD4870X2 or GTX295, while staying far cheaper.

The Corsair 650W is rated high enough to support twin graphics cards, so power should not be an issue. At least it's not for me, and I run almost that exact setup on a 600W power supply.

As for FireWire (IEEE1394) all modern motherboards I've seen have that support, so that's not an issue.

Reposted, as the link I pasted before apparently was cut off at the end.

http://www.komplett.se/k/shoplist.aspx?mode=receive&si=690078...

You always have a 3-year warranty on the components through Swedish retail law, and while I understand your point about different manufacturers you normally turn to the retailer (in this case Komplett) either way when you claim it. The only time you normally turn directly to the manufacturer or their distributor is when/if the retailer denies the warranty claim or goes out of business - a circumstance not very likely when talking about one of the largest shops in the country.

When you buy the entire package from the same retailer (assembled or in parts) you can usually return the entire computer and they'll check the components for you.

However, the chance of warranty issues arising in computer components after more than a year of usage is fairly small, excepting issues related to the graphics card or hard drives which almost always have three-year (in some cases more) manufacturer's warranties. Most other component failures such as CPU, motherboard and power supply are almost always due to outside factors such as power surges, impacts, manual overclocking or dust collecting in the cooling fans - faults that are never covered by any warranty or manufacturer's guarantee.

Well, another DVD is a small cost either way, so that's entirely up to you.

The dual graphics cards will easily make a much larger difference in pretty much any current game than the difference between the E8400 and the Phenom, but you also have to factor in the difference in the number of cores.

The Phenom have four cores each clocked in at 2.6 GHz, while the E8400 has two cores at 3.16. In older games you would see a slight advantage for the faster-per-core dual-core Intel processor, but in most newer games capable of running with three or four cores, the advantage shifts to the quad-core Phenom. 4x2.6 is after all quite a bit more than 2x3.16. The Phenom also has more cache memory than the Core2Duo, also speeding it up a bit in comparison.

As for AM3 vs AM2+, I usually recommend the latter. The Phenom-II only supports memory speeds up to 1333 MHz, no matter if you use DDR2 or DDR3 modules. What makes this irritating for me and many others is that in shifting to the newer memory standard you allow for a higher memory latency in order to support a higher bandwidth.

The performance difference between DDR2 and DDR3 simply isn't there as what you gain in bandwidth (1066 MHz DDR2 vs 1333 MHz DDR3) you lose in increased access latency (CL5 is common for DDR2, CL8 is normal for DDR3). In short, an AM3 motherboard is just an AM2+ motherboard with DDR3 support instead of DDR2.

It's also quite important to remember that while Socket 775 (Intel) is already played over and slated to be replaced by socket 1366, AMD faces the same limitations in their current socket as Intel did in theirs. There's no room for among others more memory channels, which is preventing AMD from catching up with the Core i7 and i5. In short, AM3 is just a stop-gap until AMD moves over to socket G36 next year - and G36 will not be backwards compatible.

A 650W power supply will enough, which is where the Corsair PSUfinder is wrong. You can see this as when you switch 2xGTX260 to 1xGTX295 (which requires just as much power) the PSUfinder recommends... 550W.

I've ran my system with SLI'd 260's on a 600W power supply for about 3 months without even rebooting, so 650W is definitely enough.

The case should fit both cards, but the second card will be fairly close to the bottom of the case.

Probably, I wrote the recommendation before the price drop.

Worst case you can always buy part of the computer from Inet, and the rest (motherboard and graphics card come to mind) from Komplett.
Inet has free shipping for SweC members, so you don't lose any money on that.

It's just as good as a Corsair power supply, so it's OK. As for the case, it's more a question of taste than anything else.
Any case matching the ATX standard requirements will be usable, but you're the one that has to live with the sight of it.

Komplett's 600,- shipping costs is because they ship the case as a separate package since it's too large and heavy to combine. It's usually ~150 SEK for a normal package such as graphics card or motherboard, or even both.

No problem at all, and just to lighten your spirits all Asus cards are rated for 140W TDP processors!

OK, I'm going to try and answer as well as I can..

I would not recommend it. First off the socket 775 platform for the Intel Core2 is dying, it's being replaced in the fall by the Core i5 platform. For the AMD, no matter if you choose the AM2+ or the AM3 platform, both will support all the newer processors for at least another year and a half.

The only 'safe' option is to buy nothing at all, of course, but my recommendation goes where you get the most relative safety, not to mention value for your money, and the Phenom is definately where that lands today.

Good question, and I don't have a very good answer to give. There is only one difference between AM2+ and AM3, and that is whether you'd use DDR2 or DDR3. Today, the older DDR2 is a better purchase as the DDR3-sticks while running at a higher frequency actually performs worse. You don't see any performance gains at all in any real-life application, though you can measure it with synthetic memory tests.

Another point to measure in is that the Phenom 940 isn't AM3-compatible, you'd need a Phenom 945, which is the exact same CPU but with DDR3 support. It costs around 500-700 more and performs exactly the same.

All in all I recommend the AM2+ platform since it'll cost somewhere between 1500 and 2000 less total than the equivalent AM3 platform.

It's a standard ATX chassis, nothing less, nothing more. It's nothing special about it at all. It's not too small and not too big. I've built several computers in chassis exactly like it, and if you don't want the chassis to look flashy or need a very large chassis for some reason, I do recommend it. Worst case if you'd want to change it later, it's practically free considering the price and the fact that there's a Corsair 650W power supply in it.

All NVidia GTX cards come bundled with a DVI to HDMI connector, and have an internal audio connector that goes to the sound chip on the motherboard so you'll get audio as well.

It is, it's about 350:- less than it should be, and the reason is simple, it's the older model of the M4N72-E. They're in all aspects identical, so the newer and more expensive model doesn't perform better or support more CPUs or anything, it's just a bit revised in where the connectors are placed and what colors they've chosen. The M3N has always been ugly, but hey. Colors don't give more performance.

You can go with stock, which works well as the AMD stock cooler is a Thermalright heatpipe cooler, or aim for high quality such as Zalman or Noctua. A cooler in that class is usually priced between 600 and 900 though. Either way, you're right on the money about wiping the stock crap paste and spending the extra 50:- on a tube of AS5 or OCZ Extreme.

There are a few walkthroughs out there, but I don't have the links on this work computer. It isn't very hard though, and there are detailed descriptions in the Motherboard manual. Also you shouldn't have to update the BIOS on the M3N, as it's delivered AM3-ready from stock.

As for installing, the first thing is of course installing the operating system. Whatever you install after that is up to you, but the first thing after the OS will be the Driver CD's that come with the motherboard and graphics card. As for internet connectivity, the router and computer should sort that out automatically as soon as the motherboard network drivers are installed.

Building a computer isn't hard, you just need to do things in the right order. Here it is.

1. First, open up the left side of the chassis and make sure the power supply is connected and screwed in tight. If it comes in a separate package, insert it in the top left where it fits. With the chassis you also get a small plastic bag with screws and spacers, you'll need those so keep them handy.

2. Move all the cables away so you have a free working area in the bottom left where the motherboard goes in. You'll need the motherboard available as the next step is lining up and attach the nine spacers that'll go between the motherboard and the chassis. As you're lining the motherboard up, take a second to insert the I/O shield that came with the motherboard. (a metal piece that covers the unused space around the USB, LAN, Firewire etc connectors). Be sure to turn it the right way, and it may take some force to insert.

3. When all nine spacers line up with the nine holes in the motherboard, screw the motherboard in. You'll need to use all nine screws, otherwise you can get all kinds of problems from bad grounding. Sometimes the chassis come with small washers, use these between the screws and the motherboard to avoid damaging it. If not, be careful not to overtighten the screws.

4. With the motherboard in place, the next step is to attach the CPU and the CPU cooler. It's pretty straightforward and is described in detail in the Motherboard manual. Be careful to line up the arrow on the underside of the CPU with the arrow on the CPU socket, otherwise the computer won't even boot. Attaching the cooler may take some force, that's normal.

5. Inserting the RAM memory is also very straightforward, and where you'd insert the sticks is also covered by the manual. Normally you'd use the slots colored the same for each pair of sticks. They'll only fit one way.

6. Attach the different cables that goes to the motherboard, such as the 24-pin ATX connector (will only fit in one place), the 4-pin ATX12V connector (will also only fit in one place), the front I/O panel (you get a quick-connector with the motherboard for that), front panel Audio or USB (more quick-connectors).

7. Insert the graphics card. It should slide in without any problems, but you may have to remove one or two of the rear shields. Attach the 6-pin PCI-E connectors from the power supply (there's two of them) and screw it tight by inserting two screws in the appropriate holes in the metal bracket.

8. Insert and screw tight the DVD and HDD, and attach the appropriate cables. Again, you can't attach them incorrectly, as they'll only fit in the appropriate places. One thing to remember is that the DVD and HD must be attached to one of the first four SATA-slots (SATA0-3) which are usually the four ones that are angled on the motherboard. If you're unsure, check the motherboard manual again.

The next step is to attach the cables on the rear for power, display and peripherals, and try to boot it up. The BIOS walkthrough is in the manual, and you'll probably need it to find your way around in there. Check the boot order and turn off any unwanted functions (Asus Express for one) and you should be good to go to install the OS.

Changing the RAM is entirelly ok, both brands are just as good and the only reason I chose one over the other was that the Kingston memory sticks were cheaper last week.

[quote]One last question before the building starts and I'am back plaguing you or someone else on another board: DO I need to have the same anti-virus on both machines (have MCafee on this but I want to install something like Norton or Bitdefender on the one I build....I am just wondering with regards to the shared ASDL line....having 2 different Security suites won't make any difference?..And I will have XP 32 bit on this and Vista 64 bit on the new...i assume that that will not be a problem?[/quote]

No problem in either case.

[quote]Oh and lastly for cleaning the Cpu pad..High purity Isopropyl alcohol...whats it called in swedish and where can I buy it? with Artic silver 5 do you recommend the little blob in the middle technique OR do you spread it on....I have heard that Zalman ZM-STG1 Kylpasta is easier to apply as it comes with a brush...Is this an alternative to artic silver 5?[/quote]

Since it's just thermal wax on the stock cooler, it's actually not necessary to use alcohol. It would if it was old thermal paste though.

I spread it on, by using a normal paint brush available pretty much everywhere. Just use one with synthetic fibres that don't come off. The blob in the middle technique works fine too, but I like to make sure it's spread properly myself.

As for the Zalman thermal paste it's pretty much useless compared to either Arctic Silver or OCZ Extreme.

[quote]
SO HERES THE BUILD: PLEASE ANY LAST COMMENTS:::THANKS
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Komplett

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[/QUOTE]

You sure you want two DVDs? Other than that, the computer looks nice.

I usuallt scrape most of the wax off with an old drivers license (:)) but any relatively hard plastic or wooden item would do, but not metal or glass as these would scratch the surface. Whatever is left can be easily removed with a tissue or piece of cloth. If you feel advanced, you can also lap the surface with a piece of leather before mounting the cooler, but that's usually overkill.

As for the fans, follow Djokke's recommendation.